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Category: Original Patterns

Greatest in the Galaxy Lightsaber

madisons_makings

May the Fourth be with you all! Yes, it is already that time of year for the Star War’s Day festivities and this year, I have a super fun crochet pattern to give you all! I don’t know why, but months ago I had the idea of crocheting a lightsaber and it turned out SO much better than I originally had planned.

My hubby and I are super huge nerds with all things Star Wars, Marvel, Pokemon, you name it and we (especially him) will be able to have a lengthy conversation about it with you with no problem. We finally got to go on a honeymoon, it was our third attempt (#ThanksCovid) and we ended up going to Disney World. This meant we were able to completely nerd it up and enjoy everything Star Wars Land had to offer. It was SOO cool! My hubby even got to build his own lightsaber at Savi’s Workshop and that was such a cool experience! I got to go in with him and watch the whole thing unfold. It was for sure a highlight of our trip. He now has his lightsaber and I bought a cheaper lightsaber while we were there too. Because let’s be honest, your in Star Wars Land at the Happiest Place on Earth…so you buy all the things! But I used that saber I got as a guide to design this saber’s handle, making it similar to that one. I wanted this crocheted one to be as realistic looking as possible.

That is what makes this pattern so fun though. You can design it HOWEVER you want! I just give you the design I did, which you can copy if you want. But you can also add and remove whatever accent pieces you want on the handle. You can make the saber color whatever you want. (I just picked blue because I like that color best of the sabers.) Say you have a little kid (or big kid) that you know that loves Star Wars. You could have them draw up their own design of a lightsaber and recreate that in yarn form! It would be such a fun summer project with your kiddos to do. It would give you something to work on that can make them feel included and involved in your hobby. It’s a way to unite both of your passions and hobbies. With all that being said, I am so excited to see what all you guys design!

I was able to use just random acrylic yarn I had lying around for this project. I really am still trying to stash bust and I’m honestly pretty proud of how I’ve been able to reform a lot of this random yarn into something cool. This project though is a good lesson that not all acrylic yarn is the same. I think as beginners, a lot of us would see acrylic yarn and think it’s all the same. It for sure is not! For the saber portion, I had a skein of Red Heart Yarn Super Saver in a really pretty blue color called Delft Blue. It was the perfect shade for a lightsaber! Then I had some Lion Brand Color Made Easy yarn that was also acrylic yarn in the color Basalt (which is a darker gray). The Red Heart Yarn is a weight four yarn while the Lion Brand yarn is a weight five. To look at it you would think they are acrylic yarn, seem pretty much the same, so I can interchange those. But as you work out this lightsaber you will see just how much of a difference that it makes. I wanted that bulkier feel for the handle because I wanted there to be a difference between the size of the saber part and the size of the handle. The Lion Brand yarn gave me that perfect extra “bulk” feel without changing the visual look of the basic acrylic yarn, which is exactly what I wanted. I wanted the stitches to give it a clean, solid look. So that when you look at this lightsaber from a distance, you can’t even tell it’s crocheted. The good comparison aspect of this though is that for the saber and for the handle, the stitch count is the same. When constructed, there is about an inch difference in the width of the handle and the saber. This all comes from the difference in the yarn weight. Pretty neat, right? While you are working up the pattern you will really be able to tell just how much of a difference the weight of a yarn makes.

Okay, let’s start working up this fun pattern!

What you will need to make this pattern:

  • 80 yards of Red Heart Super Saver
    • Any weight four acrylic
    • This is for the blade part
  • 45 yards of Lion Brand Color Made Easy
    • Any weight five acrylic
    • This is for the handle
  • A few yards of black acrylic yarn
  • 5.0 mm hook
  • 5/8” dowel rod that’s 36” long
  • Small amount of polyfil
  • Yarn needle
  • Scissors

Some abbreviations you will see in this pattern:

  • Ch = Chain
  • St = Stitch
  • Sts = Stitches
  • Sc = Single Crochet
  • Dc = Double Crochet
  • Tr = Treble Crochet
  • Sl st = Slip Stitch
  • Blo = Back Loop Only

Gauge:

  • Gauge isn’t a necessity in this pattern, it will just slightly alter the tightness of your light saber to the dowel rod. 
  • My finished dimensions are 36.5 inches long, 2.25 inches wide at the handle and 1.25 inches wide at the saber.
  • I used Red Heart Super Saver because it is an overall smaller acrylic than the Lion Brand Color Made Easy.  The Lion Brand is a very dense acrylic, so that is why the handle part has the same stitch count as the saber, it’s just the difference in the yarn used.  Feel free to change the st count if needed to make the handle slightly bigger than the saber part.

Notes:

  • This pattern is worked in the round.  You will not sl st at the end of the rounds unless otherwise stated in the pattern.
  • Each row’s stitch count will be in parenthesis at the end of the row’s instructions.
  • This is worked in two pieces, the saber part and the handle part.  Once both of the crocheted pieces are done, then you will sew them together on the dowel rod.
  • The cool thing about this pattern is you can design it however you want.  You can make the saber any color you want, the handle any color you want, and you can add or remove any of the “accent” pieces on the handle that you would like.  Use your creative juices to make your own lightsaber design. J
  • Lion Brand has discontinued Color Made Easy, if you have it lying around, perfect!  If not, any weight 5 acrylic yarn should work.
  • I’m sure this goes without saying, but I own ZERO rights to any Star Wars or lightsaber products.  This is my crochet rendition of a lightsaber.

Pattern for the saber portion:

  • Make a magic circle
  • Round 1:  Ch 1, sc 4 into the circle, pull tight (4)
  • Round 2:  Two sc in each of the previous rounds four sts (8)
  • Round 3:  Two sc in each of the previous rounds 8 sts (16)
  • Rounds 4-138:  Sc in each st from the previous round (16)
  • Tie off and weave in all ends.  It should be approximately 27 inches long.

Pattern for the handle portion:

  • Make a magic circle
  • Round 1:  Ch 1, sc 4 into the circle, pull tight (4)
  • Round 2:  Two sc in each of the previous rounds four sts (8)
  • Round 3:  Two sc in each of the previous rounds 8 sts (16)
  • Round 4:  One sc in blo in each of the previous rounds 16 sts (16)
  • Rounds 5-44:  Sc in each st from the previous round (16)
  • Round 45:  Hdc in the 1st st, dc in the 2nd st, tr in the 3rd st, tr in the 4th st, dc in the 5th st, hdc in the 6th st, sc in the next 9 sts, sl st in the 16th st (16)
  • Tie off and weave in ends.  Including the raised edge, it should be about 10.5 inches long.

Pattern for the black accent pieces on the handle:

For the bottom stripes on the handle – make 5 with black yarn.

  • Ch 3
  • Row 1:  Sc in 2nd ch from the hook, sc in last ch, ch 1, turn (2)
  • Rows 2-11:  Sc in both sts across, ch 1, turn (2)
  • Row 12:  Sc in both sts across (2)
  • Tie off, leaving a long tail for sewing.

Pattern for the black circle pieces on the handle:

For the top, round circle pieces at the top of the handle – make 2 with black yarn.

  • Make a magic circle
  • Round 1:  Ch 1, sc 8 into the magic circle, sl st into the top of the first st (8)
  • Tie off and leave a long tail for sewing.

Pattern for the button on the handle:

For the side button, we will start with making a rectangle using gray yarn.

  • Ch 4
  • Row 1:  Sc in 2nd ch from hook, sc across, ch 1, turn (3)
  • Rows 2-7:  Sc in each st across, ch 1, turn (3)
  • Row 8:  Sc in each st across (3)
  • Tie off and leave a long tail for sewing.

Now using the black yarn, we will make a black button for the side, to go on top of the gray piece we just made.

  • Ch 3
  • Row 1:  Sc in 2nd ch from the hook, sc in next st, ch 1, turn (2)
  • Rows 2-6:  Sc in both sts, ch 1, turn (2)
  • Row 7:  Sc in both sts (2)
  • Tie off and leave a long tail for sewing.

Assembly:

  • Before you sew the handle and the saber together, you need to sew all the accent pieces onto the handle.
  • Take the five black stripes and sew them vertically onto the gray handle near the bottom.  Space them out evenly around the base of the handle.
    • I sewed the bottom of them between the second and third row from the bottom of the handle.
  • Take the gray rectangle we made and sew it onto the side of the handle, where ever you would like it to be.  (I put mine more in the middle of the handle.)
  • Now, take the smaller black rectangle and sew that directly on top of the small gray rectangle you just sewed on, centering it evenly on the gray rectangle.
    • This provides the handle and button part with more structure, but as mentioned, feel free to design and place whatever accents where ever you would like.
  • Lastly, sew the black round buttons on the top of the handle, opposite the side that has the raised edge around the top of the handle.  See photos below for more detail on the placement of my accent pieces.
  • Take the dowel rod and put the handle on one end of it.  Fill the handle with polyfil all around the dowel rod.  This will help give the handle more structure and make it thicker and easier to hold, versus the rest of the saber.
  • Once you have the amount of polyfil you like in the handle, place the colored part of the saber on the other end of the dowel rod.  Make sure that you overlap the two pieces, allowing the gray portion to be covering the bottom of the colored portion.
  • Take gray yarn and weave in and out of the top of the handle, sewing the colored part and the gray handle part together.
    • Be careful that you do not sew down the raised edge at the top, you want to sew underneath that top most row of stitches so you still have that “overlap” appearance. 
  • Once they are securely together, tie off and weave in all ends.

And there you have it folks! You now have the Greatest in the Galaxy Lightsaber of your very own creation! You can create this as intricate or basic as you like. The possibilities are endless! I hope you have fun creating and designing your own lightsaber! Let your creative juices flow with this project. I cannot wait to see what all you come up with!

If you would like to purchase a print out copy of this pattern, you can find it on my Etsy shop by clicking here or on LoveCrafts by clicking here. If you want to pin this to your Pinterest board, you can find the pin here. And if you make one of these, I would LOVE to see it! Feel free to share it on Instagram or Facebook using the hashtag #GreatestInTheGalaxyLightsaber and tag me using @madisons_makings. If you have any questions about this pattern, or any of my patterns, please feel free to reach out to me at any of my social medias or by email at [email protected].

I have a couple more ideas in mind for some summer projects I’ll be working on. So feel free to subscribe to my social medias and drop your name and email address in the form at the bottom of this page. You won’t get any spam emails, it’ll just send you an email when I make a new blog post. That way you won’t miss any of these free patterns.

Now go embrace your inner nerd and enjoy this fun day! May the fourth be with you all!

Feel free to make as many of these as you would like and feel free to sell them. I just ask that you please acknowledge Madison’s Makings when you do. Please do not steal or copy this pattern and/or my pictures and credit them as your own work. Thank you!

He Is Risen Wall Hanging

madisons_makings

Happy “almost” Easter everyone! This year is flying by and I’m having a hard time comprehending just how fast it’s going. This time last year I was in utter chaos trying to replan our wedding in under four weeks. #ThanksCovid

This year looks A LOT different. My hubby and I are settled in. We are looking forward to get to go on an actual honeymoon (now one year anniversary trip). We have a niece and nephew. And we get to spend each day together instead of just seeing each other on the weekends. Life is good.

With Easter right around the corner, I was so excited to decorate our home for Easter. But while doing so, I realized the amount of faith based decorations for Easter is very lacking. Sure, it’s there, but it seems that bunnies and eggs are the more prominent decoration. I’m not saying I don’t love some Easter eggs and bunny decorations, but to me, Easter is about the resurrection of our King! I think our Savior rising from the dead, to save us from all of our numerous sins, is for sure something to celebrate. That, my friends, is how the He Is Risen Wall Hanging came to be.

I wanted an Easter decoration that was simple enough that anyone could make it, but more importantly I wanted the cross to be simple in design. Nothing about the cross is glamorous, so I didn’t want a bunch of detail in it. However, I wanted it to have the purple swag to show that someone royal was willing to die on that cross for US. He did that for people who hate Him, ignore Him, and don’t even want to give Him the time of day. That amount of love that Jesus has for us is literally overwhelming to think about.

This pattern uses simple, basic materials and can be made very quickly. I used Caron Simply Soft yarn because I had some of the brown yarn left over from some baby projects I had made back in the summer which you can see here. (I’m still on my journey of trying to clean out some of my yarn stash for both my husband and myself’s sake.) I love working with this yarn though, especially for projects like this. This yarn has the perfect amount of shine to it while still being thin and lightweight for a weight four yarn. I think the stitches look so defined and lovely with this yarn which is why it’s a top pick for me when I need to work on a project. Also, the color selection for this yarn is awesome. There is so many different color options to choose from.

The hardest part for me was probably finding dowel rods when I am not in my home town in West Virginia. My family owns a lumber yard where I could get dowel rods a dime a dozen whenever I need it. But finding them in the middle of a small-ish town was a lot more difficult than I thought it would be. I ended up getting the last one that the nearest Hobby Lobby had, and it was even broken almost in half so they gave it to me for a discounted price. I did come across some though at Dollar General in a package of multiple different sizes (after I searched and drove 45 minutes one way and found it finally at Hobby Lobby of course) that are about ten or twelve inches long. This would work perfectly for this project, because you don’t need too long of a dowel rod. So if you’re struggling with finding one too, give Dollar General a try.

The next hardest part for me was finding a way to get the horizontal arms to stay out straight, especially after adding the swag. I originally had the thought of adding fishing line to the edges, even though that didn’t sound too good in my head. I was throwing some ideas around with another crochet friend (thank you Stephanie!) and she suggested trying to put a frame inside it. There’s multiple different ways you can do this. I think the easiest and most common thing to use, since most of us have these lying around, is paper clips. My husband and I are still coming up with random things that most households have that we still don’t have since we are still in our first year of marriage. So I had to go buy some. Hahaha. But I got the extra large paper clips and just unbent them to straighten them out as much as possible. All you have to do is weave the paper clips through the back loops of the double crochet stitches across the horizontal arms of the cross. I’ll show and explain that more further down in this blog. It might seem silly, but it actually is super effective.

I also wanted to mention, that once again I used the lemon peel stitch for this pattern, just like I did in the Switchin’ It Up Nintendo Switch pattern. I love this stitch so much! I wanted a simple stitch but something a bit more than just the regular half double crochet or single crochet. When I started working this up with the lemon peel stitch, I fell in love! The detail from the stitches with this yarn and this stitch was EXACTLY what I had in mind for this cross. This stitch is so versatile. I highly suggest trying it out. It is so much fun to work up and so easy to do. It’s an all around win win with this stitch.

Now that we have chatted enough about this pattern, let’s get into the actual pattern.

What you will need to make this pattern:

  • 68 yards Caron Simply Soft in Taupe
  • 50 yards of Caron Simply Soft in Iris
  • 2 yards of scrap white acrylic yarn
  • 5.0 mm crochet hook
  • 3/8” dowel rod (12” to 14.5” long)
  • 3 or 4 large silver paper clips
  • Yarn needle
  • Scissors
  • Stitch markers (optional)

Some abbreviations you will see in this pattern:

  • Ch = Chain
  • St = Stitch
  • Sts = Stitches
  • Sc = Single Crochet
  • Dc = Double Crochet
  • * * = Repeat instructions inside the asterisk across until otherwise noted

Gauge:

  • Gauge isn’t a necessity in this pattern, it will just slightly alter your final dimensions which will not alter the look of the finished project
  • My finished dimensions are 13 inches tall, 9.5 inches wide at the horizontal bar, and the vertical bar is about 3.5 inches wide.
  • The purple swag is about 22 inches long and 1.75 inches wide.

Notes:

  • This pattern uses the lemon peel stitch (sc, dc)
  • To give this pattern the lemon peel stitch, ensure that each sc is put above a dc st and that each dc is put above a sc st.
  • Each row’s stitch count will be in parenthesis at the end of the row’s instructions.

Pattern:

Ch 15

Row 1:  Sc in 2nd ch from hook, dc, *sc, dc*, repeat across, ch 1, turn (14)

Row 2:  *Sc, dc*, repeat across, ch 1, turn (14)

Rows 3-23: Repeat row 2

Row 24:  *Sc, dc* across, ch 13, turn (27)  **Feel free to place a st marker at the beginning and end of this row**

Row 25:  Sc in 2nd ch from the hook, dc, *sc, dc*, repeat across, ch 1, turn (26)

Row 26:  *Sc, dc*, repeat across, ch 1, turn (26)

Rows 27-33:  Repeat row 26

Row 34:  *Sc, dc*, repeat for the first 14 sts, ch 1, turn (14)  **Feel free to place a st marker on the 1st and 14th st of this row**

Row 35:  *Sc, dc*, repeat across, ch 1, turn (14)

Rows 36-44:  Repeat row 35

Tie off and weave in ends

Now we are going to start the last piece of the actual cross:

Ch 13

Row 1:  Sc in 2nd ch from the hook, dc, *sc, dc*, repeat across, ch 1, turn (12)

Row 2:  *Sc, dc*, repeat across, ch 1, turn (12)

Rows 3-9:  Repeat row 2

Tie off and leave a long tail for sewing when you cut the yarn from the skein.

Line up with either to the st markers if you used them, or what I do which is just eye ball it.

Using the long tail and the yarn needle, sew the small piece of the cross directly onto the tall, vertical portion of the cross.  Ensuring that it is lined up with the other horizontal arm of the cross.  Sew one row of the small piece to one row of the vertical piece.

Try to only gather parts of the sts in each row from the back of the sts.

Once it is secured all the way down, tie off and weave in all ends.

Now we are going to start the purple swag portion of the wall hanging:

Ch 9

Row 1: Sc in 2nd ch from the hook, ch 1, turn (8)

Row 2: Sc in each st across (8)

Rows 3-110: Repeat row 2

Assembly:

  • We first need to reinforce the horizontal bars of the cross.  This is where the paper clips come in.
  • Bend out the paper clips so they are as straight as you can get them.  When they are straight, weave the paperclips, starting at the edge of the cross to the inside, vertical bar of the cross.  Only picking up the back of the double crochet stitches.  You do not want to see the paper clip from the front.  I used at least one in each horizontal bar.
  • Now is when we will stitch the purple swag onto the cross.  You want to loop the purple behind the horizontal bars but in front of the middle, vertical part of the cross.  Place it where you think it should be and make sure both of the ends are even distance down the vertical part of the cross.
  • Once you have it where you like it, take the purple yarn and your yarn needle.  I did one quick little stitch at the top of the purple part and secured it to the back of the vertical bar.  I also did a couple more holding it to the horizontal bar and the vertical bar.  Secure the end and weave in any loose ends you may have.
  • Do this to both sides of the swag.  Make sure it is secure and that you have hidden all the purple ends where you cannot see them from the front of the cross.
  • Now we will single crochet the cross onto the dowel rod. 
  • Follow this video to help you to single crochet it onto the dowel rod.
  • Cut one end of the dowel rod so that it ends up being about 14.5 inches long.
  • Take your white yarn, and chain about 50 or 55 stitches. 
  • Tie off then tie the ends of this short chain, one end to each end of the dowel rod.
  • Once secured, weave in the ends into the chain.  You can hang it from a nail on the wall of even on a door.   

That’s it my friends! There seems like a lot of pieces and parts, but trust me. You can make this in just a few short hours. It all works up super fast and it is quick and easy to put together once you have all the supplies you need. I hope you have enjoyed this pattern. I know for me, this is a pattern that I got the idea for and I became super passionate about it. I think it’s a message that comes with the pattern and to me, it’s the message that means so much. I felt I needed to share it ASAP.

I hope you all have a blessed Easter season and that you will always remember the true reason for this beautiful spring holiday. I pray that this wall hanging will serve as a constant reminder that when you see it you are reminded of just how much Jesus loves you and what He is willing and has already done for you.

If you would like to purchase a print out copy of this pattern, you can find it on my Etsy shop by clicking here or on LoveCrafts by clicking here. If you want to pin this to your Pinterest board, you can find the pin here. And if you make one of these, I would LOVE to see it! Feel free to share it on Instagram or Facebook using the hashtag #HeIsRisenWallHanging and tag me using @madisons_makings. If you have any questions about this pattern, or any of my patterns, please feel free to reach out to me at any of my social medias or by email at [email protected].

I have a very exciting pattern coming out in May, so please subscribe to my website so you will be one of the first people to get the update about that new pattern, and all my future patterns. You can subscribe by scrolling to the bottom of this page, or any of my blog pages, and simply just sharing your name and email. You will just be notified when I post new blog posts. Until then, have a wonderful couple weeks my friends and happy crocheting.

Mark 16:6 “’Don’t be alarmed,” he said.  “You are looking for Jesus the Nazarene, who was crucified.  He has risen!  He is not here.  See the place where they laid him.”

Feel free to make as many of these as you would like and feel free to sell them. I just ask that you please acknowledge Madison’s Makings when you do. Please do not steal or copy this pattern and/or my pictures and credit them as your own work. Thank you!

Snowball Scarf

madisons_makings

It’s 2021 ya’ll!

We made it officially out of the year 2020 and so far, these first few weeks doesn’t look like we are completely clear of 2020 yet. But we still have a whole year to change that!

I hope everyone had a fantastic Christmas and New Year’s! Ours ended up being very different looking than the past few years, but what’s important is we got to spend Christmas and the holidays with everyone even if it took a couple weeks to do that. Our Christmas decorations are down, the house looks horrifyingly bare and I have so much anticipation and excitement for this year! I have so many pattern ideas flowing through my brain and to be honest, this one was not on my radar AT ALL.

I still have so much Red Heart Hygge yarn left over from the babies’ blankets I made last summer that I’ve been trying to use up. (I’m still hard core trying to use up all the yarn I have lying around and not make routine trips to get yarn unless absolutely necessary. So far so good!) And around Christmas time I just got this picture in my head of a huge, cozy and long scarf. I just couldn’t get the picture out of my head. I knew I would need a project to work on at the Christmas festivities so I brought home a skein of Hygge and just went to town on that idea. A few days later, you got the Snowball Scarf!

This pattern is literally so unbelievably easy and even with the huge size (I mean it ended up being 91 inches long!!), it works up soo fast! While sitting with my family just talking and crocheting, my grandpa said, “Madison, you’ve gotten like a foot of that done already!” It works up so fast! Which is exactly what I wanted! I wanted a pattern, like my goal for all my patterns, that a beginner can look at and start making and be proud of what all they’ve accomplished.

Another cool feature about this scarf is because of the length, it can be worn in many different ways. Here are the three ways that I like to wear it:

This scarf uses Red Heart Hygge yarn just like the Sophie Headband and uses the same stitch pattern as the Victorious Infinity Scarf. If it’s not obvious yet, I’m pretty obsessed with the treble crochet v stitch and Hygge yarn. (I promise I have projects in the works that do not use those two things.) As I mentioned, it works up incredibly fast all thanks to the treble crochet stitches height.

Maybe you guys were the same way, but some of my first projects I ever crocheted was double crochet, back and forth a bunch of times to make scarves with fringe on the ends. I mean I made soo many of those and I recently found some in an old tote I have. Let’s just say, those look ROUGH. My skills have greatly increased since then. But I think from making those so much, I thought that those kind of scarves aren’t popular or useful anymore because of the big hit infinity scarves and cowls have become. Yet once I started this one I knew it was going to be one of my favorite patterns. Because I think it’s nice to take something you made so often as a beginner crocheter and kind of upscale it now to show yourself just how far you’ve come over the years. What a perfect New Year task to do. It isn’t just about “New Year, New Me” but it’s about “New Year, Look How Far I’ve Come.”

I hope this pattern brings you that same sense of accomplishment that it gave me. I am proud to give you guys this pattern and I hope you are proud to make this scarf and share with others what you’ve made!

What you will need to make this pattern:

  • About 440 yards (a little more than 2 skeins) of Red Heart Hygge Yarn
  • 6.5 mm hook
  • Scissors
  • Yarn needle
  • Pom Pom maker (optional)

Some abbreviations you will see in this pattern:

  • Ch = Chain
  • St = Stitch
  • Sts = Stitches
  • Hdc = Half Double Crochet
  • Tr = Treble Crochet
  • * * = Repeat instructions inside the asterisk across the row until otherwise noted

Gauge:

  • Gauge isn’t a necessity in this pattern, it all depends on how you want the look of the scarf to be and how long you want it.
  • My finished dimensions are 91” long (including the poms) and 9” wide.
  • Depending on your gauge and the size you make your scarf, the amount of yarn used will vary.

Notes:

  • This pattern uses a treble crochet v stitch.
  • The ch 2 at the beginning of the hdc rows DOES count as a stitch.
  • The ch 4 at the beginning of the tr rows DOES count as a stitch.
  • If needed, feel free to do a foundation hdc for the first row if your tension is tight on the ch and first row.
  • If you would like this pattern to be narrower or wider, simply chain an odd number of stitches to get started.
  • If you would like this pattern to be longer or shorter, just don’t do as many tr v st rows.
  • Each row’s stitch count will be in parenthesis at the end of the round’s instructions.

Pattern:

Ch 25

Row 1:  Hdc in 3rd ch from the hook, ch 4, turn (24)

Row 2:  Tr in next st from the ch 4, sk st, *2 tr in the next st, sk st, 2 tr in next st,* repeat across, ch 4, turn (24)

Row 3:  Tr in between space of previous rows last two tr sts, *2 tr in space between the next group of tr from previous round, sk st, 2 tr in space between the next group of tr from previous round,* repeat across, ch 4, turn (24)

Row 4-71:  Repeat row 3 (24)

Row 72:  Tr in between space of previous rows last two tr sts, *2 tr in space between the next group of tr from previous round, sk st, 2 tr in space between the next group of tr from previous round,* repeat across, ch 2, turn (24)

Row 73:  Hdc in each st across (24)

Tie off and weave in all ends.

Next you will make two large pom poms out of the remaining yarn. You can also use a pom pom maker if you have one and if that is your preferred way to make them. (You can even put a faux fur pom at each end of the scarf if you prefer that.) Personally, it’s easier for me to make pom poms with my hands. I have huge hands though, so if you have smaller hands it might be more difficult to make a large pom pom. But for these pom poms, I ended up wrapping the yarn around my hand about 100 times to make it super big and fluffy.

When making the pom pom, leave the ends really long. Take your yarn needle and thread one of the pom pom’s tails in the needle. Weaving in and out of the first row’s hdc sts, start from one end to the other end of the first row. Take the other pom pom tail and repeat the process, starting from the opposite direction and working all the way across.

Tie the two tails of the pom pom together after you finish weaving them all the way through from both directions. Ensure it is centered on the end of the scarf before securing. Trim the tail ends to essentially add it to the pom pom.

Repeat this for the other end and then you are all done! You’ve officially made the Snowball Scarf.

I hope this scarf keeps you warm for years to come and I hope you loved every minute of making it. I would love to see all of your Snowball Scarves so please tag me on Instagram when you do make it and use the hashtag #SnowballScarf. If you would like to pin this free pattern on your Pinterest board, you can click here. And if you would like a paid copy of this pattern, you can purchase that on Etsy here. Buying the paid copy will help me to continue to bring you patterns regularly. Like always, if you have any questions about this pattern, or any of my patterns, feel free to message me on Instagram or email me at [email protected].

Happy crocheting friends!!

Feel free to make as many of these as you would like and feel free to sell them. I just ask that you please acknowledge Madison’s Makings when you do. Please do not steal or copy this pattern and/or my pictures and credit them as your own work. Thank you!

Victorious Infinity Scarf

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Happy almost Thanksgiving!

This is the perfect pattern and blog to share with you all this time of year when we think more about what we are thankful for.

First of all, this is the first pattern I ever designed myself. I have been making this scarf for years but never felt like I was good enough at crocheting to officially write it up. Now that I’ve gotten a couple original patterns under my belt, I guess it is time to share the easiest scarf pattern you will ever find. This pattern is a reminder to me of how far I’ve come in this crochet world. I was so scared to start creating my own patterns now here we are, with this being my FIFTH pattern that I’ve released in the last few months. I’ll be honest friends, I never thought I would be here.

Second, and most importantly, this scarf reminds me of what I’m most thankful for and why this scarf is named the Victorious Infinity Scarf. While working on this and while my testers were working on it, my family had a scary couple weeks. My dad had to get surgery and while it is usually routine, there was a few other scary things that were discovered leading up to the procedure. My family was praying continuously for God’s healing hand and comfort during those few weeks. I’m happy to announce everything went completely textbook for his surgery and he is recovering very well. But all I can think about is how awesome our God is and He made us victorious in that very scary, nerve wracking time. God is so good, friends.

Now more about the pattern itself. It is a very beginner friendly pattern. This uses two basic stitches and a v stitch. I use Lion Brand Scarfie yarn for it because the color way of that yarn mixed with this scarf is so perfect. The length of each row just happens to be the length of each color in the skein, creating sharp and concise rows of different colors. And let’s also talk about the drape. Scarfie yarn has thee most perfect drape for an infinity scarf. My goal for this scarf is to be a soft, flowy, and loose scarf. Scarfie is designed for that. Besides having a beautiful and useful scarf, another goal of mine for this scarf is to give you a pattern that you can sit down, turn on Hallmark Christmas movies and snuggle up under a blanket and mindlessly bust this project out in a few hours. It’s the perfect project to make a couple of and gift it to your friends and family. Check out all of the wonderful colors Lion Brand has to offer here. I feel like every time I buy Scarfie yarn, Lion Brand has come out with new color ways and I promise there will be a skein and color way to match everyone’s style (or coat) that you know.

Another fun part about this project is that it is totally customizable. The pattern is written to how I like my scarves to fit, but it can be customized to however you like your scarves to fit. If you want it thinner, then just take rounds away. If you want it to be thicker, add more rounds. If you want it to be tighter around your neck, get rid of some stitches. It is 100% customizable to how you like a scarf to fit. After all, you’re the one buying the yarn and taking the time to make it so you might as well have a finished product that is 100% how you like it.

What you will need to make this pattern:

  • About 215 yards of Lion Brand Scarfie Yarn (1 skein)
  • 8.0 mm hook
  • Scissors
  • Yarn needle

Some abbreviations you will see in this pattern:

  • Ch = Chain
  • St = Stitch
  • Sts = Stitches
  • Sk = Skip
  • Hdc = Half Double Crochet
  • Tr = Treble Crochet
  • * * = Repeat instructions inside the asterisks cross the row until otherwise noted

Gauge:

  • Gauge isn’t a necessity in this pattern, it all depends on how you want the look of the scarf to be and how long or short you like your infinity scarves.
  • My finished dimensions are 29″ wide and 7.75″ tall.
  • Depending on your gauge and the size you make your scarf, the amount of yarn used will vary.

Notes:

  • This pattern uses a treble crochet v stitch.
  • The ch 2 at the beginning of the hdc rows does NOT count as a stitch.
  • The ch 4 at the beginning of the tr rows does count as a stitch.
  • If needed, feel free to do a foundation hdc for the first row if your tension is tight on the ch and first row.
  • If you would like this pattern to be shorter lengthwise, simply chain an even number of stitches to get started.
  • Likewise, if you would like it to be wider or narrower height wise, just add or remove tr v stitch rows.
  • Each round’s stitch count will be in parenthesis at the end of the round’s instructions.

Pattern:

  • Ch 122, sl st to the first ch. Be careful to not twist your chain.
  • Round 1: Ch 2, hdc in each st across, sl st into top of ch 2 (122)
  • Round 2: Ch 4, tr into the first st, sk st, *2 tr in the next st, sk st, 2 tr in next st,* repeat across. Sl st into top of ch 4 (122)
  • Round 3: Ch 4, tr in between space of previous rows ch 4 and first tr, *2 tr in space between the next group of tr from previous round, sk st, 2 tr in space between the next group of tr from previous round,* repeat across, sl st into top of ch 4 (122)
  • Round 4-8: Repeat row 3 (122)
  • Round 9: Ch 2, hdc in each st across (122)
  • Tie off and weave in ends.

Yup. That is IT. It is such a short and sweet pattern. The treble crochet stitches make it build up quick (which is why I love treble crochet). And they also help create the wonderful drape I was going for.

I hope this pattern helps you cross some people off your Christmas shopping list and in the process allows you to relax in this busy holiday season. You can even order the yarn online through the link above so you don’t have to go out and deal with all the crazy drivers and this year, the crazy Covid rules and restrictions.

This has been such a staple pattern for me throughout the years and I hope it becomes a favorite pattern for you too. I would love to see all the finished scarves you’ve made! Please tag me on Instagram with all your lovely makes and use the hashtag #VictoriousInfinityScarf. You can pin this on your Pinterest board by clicking here. And if you would like a print out of the pattern, you can purchase it from Etsy here. If you have any questions about this pattern, you can message me on Instagram or email me at [email protected].

Happy crocheting and I hope you all have a wonderful Thanksgiving! We have so much to be thankful for.

“But thanks be to God! He gives us the VICTORY through our Lord Jesus Christ.” 1 Corinthians 15:57

Feel free to make as many of these as you would like and feel free to sell them. I just ask that you please acknowledge Madison’s Makings when you do. Please do not steal or copy this pattern and/or my pictures and credit them as your own work. Thank you!

*This post contains affiliate links that I receive a small commission from when yarn is purchased through the link provided. This commission will allow me to continue to create new patterns for you to enjoy. For further information, please see my Privacy Policy.

Dish Towel Pal

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Hello everyone! It’s been a hot minute! A lot has gone on the past few months. First of all, I now have a niece and a nephew! They were born just six days apart! I am in absolute love with them both. Corey and I live a little over an hour away from them, so we have been going home home almost every weekend to get our fill of baby snuggles every chance we can get.

Another big thing lately is I was able to pattern test for my friend Stitch and Hound again and made the most beautiful sweater ever! Once she releases the pattern I will be writing a blog post all about that awesome project. I cannot wait to share that with you all. Sarah knocked it out of the park with this design (like she always does).

Also, I had a craft show this past weekend! I have been prepping on it ever since I finished the pattern test sweater. I’m so glad I was able to do this show. Most shows have been canceled this year because of Covid. Luckily, this one was outside and we had the most perfect weather for it. I set a goal for myself and I exceeded that goal which I am so excited about.

I have a few days off this week and decided I wanted to put a quick little project out there on the blog until I am able to get my new scarf pattern out and until I can post about the sweater. So that is how you are getting this Dish Towel Pal pattern! This project is one of the most stereotypical crochet projects out there I think. I am pretty sure everyone and their brother’s grandmothers and great grandmothers have made it through the years. For so long I had wanted to try making them but never got around to it. Luckily, a coworker of mine asked me to make him some of these to give to his family as gifts as all of their dishtowels were all worn out. I had always known the pattern itself appeared to be easy, but it was the part of getting the yarn through the towel that intimidated me. A quick YouTube search brought me to this video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Xdj6n6pWmoY. As you watch this, you can see she uses an awl tool to poke through the fabric. She made it look so easy and I highly doubted it would work that well until I got the tool and it worked like a CHARM. From that point, I looked at my friend’s old towels and made some changes to the original pattern that his grandmother used to make it my own. Since then I have made a bunch of these towels and have another big order for them come Christmas time (which is very fast approaching!)

As most of these last few projects have been, this is also another great stash buster project. It requires very little yarn and works up so quick. It makes the perfect gift and also a great project for beginners because of the basic stitches and easy decrease method. This pattern varies some from the normal layout of a pattern. There is a lot of pictures throughout this post to help make it as simple as possible and to explain it step by step as much as I can. I hope it helps!

What you will need to make this pattern:

  • Dish towel
  • 5.0 mm hook
  • A small amount of size 4 cotton yarn
  • Awl
  • Yarn needle
  • Slightly smaller needle (to fit through the button holes)
  • One 3/4 inch button
  • Scissors
  • Measuring tape
  • Marker

Some abbreviations you will see in this pattern:

  • Ch = Chain
  • St = Stitch
  • Sts = Stitches
  • Sk = Skip
  • Sc = Single Crochet
  • Dc = Double Crochet
  • * * = Repeat instructions inside the asterisk across the row until otherwise noted

Notes:

  • The chain three at the beginning of each row does count as a stitch.
  • Each row’s stitch count will be in parenthesis at the end of each row.
  • This is a beginner friendly pattern.
  • Row 7 has some variance with the pattern, see the picture of it at the bottom.

Pattern:

First things first, you need to lay out your dish towel flat and fold it so the front (side of the towel to be viewed) is turned over so that you are facing the back side of the towel. Take the top part of the towel and fold it in half so you can now see the front side of the towel. From here, take a measuring tape and measure the top of the towel (at the folded part). My towel measured about 15.5 inches. I divided 15.5 by 62 and that equals .25 inches. That’s how many holes you are going to poke through the towel.

With the measuring tape still lying flat at the top of the towel, take your marker and dot every .25 inch spot about a half inch below the top of the fold. After you have all the dots marked out on the towel, now you will start making the holes and your first row.

This is where the awl will become your best friend. At your first dot on the right side of the towel, poke the awl through the towel. Make sure you push the awl all the way through the towel because doing so will make the hole bigger allowing your crochet hook to fit better. (Since we are mentioning crochet hooks, I usually prefer tapered hooks for 99% of my crochet projects. However, for this project, I have found that the inline hooks work better because it allows the yarn to get tucked into the hook more which helps it not get caught on the other side of the towel as much when pulling it through the hole in the towel.) Now that you have your first hole made, put the crochet hook through the towel. On the back side of the towel, pick up the yarn and pull the yarn through the hole of the towel, yarn over and pull up a loop. You have now completed your first sc!

Another tip I discovered after learning the hard way, only do one hole and one stitch at a time. If you try to go through and poke all the holes first, the holes will close up some and will get the front and back hole jumbled up in the meantime. It takes a little extra time but I promise it will be ten times smoother to do one hole and one stitch at a time.

Your hook may fall out of the stitch you just made while you are poking the next hole but that is perfectly alright. Just keep going all the way across the towel until all of your dots that you marked in are replaced with holes and a single crochet stitch.

Once you are all the way across, your first row of sc will be complete. You should have 61 sc stitches. Just ch 1 and turn your work.

Row 2: Sc in each st across, ch 3, turn (61)

Row 3: Dc in first st, sk 1, *dc, sk 1,* repeat across until 2 sts remain, dc one in each of the last 2 sts, ch 1, turn (32)

After row 3, it will start to pucker some. That is okay because we are starting a pretty quick decrease.

Row 4: Sc in each st across, ch 3, turn (32)

Row 5: *Dc, sk st, dc,* repeat across, ch 1, turn (17)

Row 6: Sc in each st across, ch 3, turn (17)

End of row 6.

Row 7: Sk first st, *dc, sk st, dc,* repeat across, ch 1, turn (9)

Unlike the last decrease rows, where you have crocheted in the first st like you normally would, for row 7 you need to sk the first st.

Row 8: Sc in each st across, ch 3, turn (9)

Here is a close up picture of the decrease portion before tapering it off to the continuous 9 sts per row for the rest of the pattern.

Row 9: Dc in each st across, ch 1, turn (9)

Row 10: Sc in each st across, ch 3, turn (9)

Rows 11-24: Repeat rows 9 and 10 (9)

Row 24 should be a single crochet row. Tie off and weave in all ends.

The next step of this pattern is to sew the button on. Turn the towel so that the front of your project is facing you. At row 8, place the button in the center of the row. After threading the smaller needle with yarn, bring it up through one of the holes in the button. I like to try to go through the yarn threads of one of the sc stitches so that it has more to hold on to. Work the needle back down through another button hole, still trying to go through the threads of the yarn strand underneath the button. Go back up and down through the button holes until you feel the button is secure. Turn your work over and tie a knot between the beginning and end of the yarn used to sew the button on. Weave in those ends.

And there you have it! You have completed the Dish Towel Pal! It is such a simple project, no wonder all our grandma’s and great grandma’s made these all the time! They would be so proud of us for carrying on their tradition.

My favorite part about this pattern versus many of the other dish towel topper patterns is that you can make the loop as tight or loose around your oven or dishwasher handle as you want. The dc rows act as built in button holes. There is no need to make a certain button hole which essentially locks you into one length of the loop.

I hope you all enjoy this pattern! It makes a great holiday or housewarming gift because most people have had these at some point during their lives. But as the towels become worn out over the years, they throw them away and more than likely they probably don’t know anyone that crochets to have them make them more of these. It’s a gift that nobody thinks they want until they see them. I know I will have plenty of these on my hook before Christmas is here.

I would absolutely love to see your finished products! Please tag me @madisonsmakings and use the hashtag #DishTowelPal on Instagram. Also, if you would like to pin this pattern on Pinterest, click here. And if you would like to purchase the pattern on Etsy, that can be found here. Each purchase of one of my patterns helps support Madison’s Makings to keep new patterns coming. As always, if you have any questions about this pattern at all, please do not hesitate to reach out to me either by email or on Instagram. I would be happy to help you bring this pattern to life.

I’ll be back very soon with a new scarf pattern, just in time for Christmas orders. In the meantime, I hope you all enjoy this beautiful fall season.

Happy crocheting!

Feel free to make as many of these as you would like and feel free to sell them. I just ask that you please acknowledge Madison’s Makings when you do. Please do not steal or copy this pattern and/or my pictures and credit them as your own work. Thank you!

The Sophie Headband

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Hello everyone! I have a new pattern for you all and I am SUPER excited about this one! It’s officially August now, one month closer to fall and chilly weather. I wanted to get a quick and easy, stash busting pattern out for anyone that might be able to do a fall craft or vendor show, even with all this pandemic stuff STILL going on.

I’ve had a busy couple weeks and procrastinated a little too longer on a blanket for my soon to be nephew. The baby shower for my sister-in-law was last Saturday and I was able to finish his blanket last Saturday with about three hours to spare. WHEW! Corey and I stayed with my parent’s the night before the shower so that we could be in our home town and be able to help set up for the shower. In the meantime, he had a wedding to go to the same afternoon. I asked if he could gather up my crochet stuff and pack it away whenever he left for the wedding. Luckily, some yarn and hooks were hiding from him, which gave me a few hours and a few skeins of leftover Hygge Red Heart Yarn and some random hooks I had lying around. This was enough for me to come up with, what I think, is the softest and warmest headband out there!

Earlier in the week, my coworker had this super cute headband holding back her hair that had a little knot on the center of it. She said it was a regular headband that she knotted herself and I just loved the way it looked! So while sitting at my parent’s house, snuggling with my puppy Sophie, fiddling around with some Hygge yarn, I started experimenting to try to make a headband/earwarmer that had that knot on the top of your head.

That is how the Sophie Headband was created! With the help of my puppy, I was able to create this super cute headband using leftover yarn. To say this is a great stash buster is an understatement! All this takes is about 57 yards of yarn, that’s it! It also is all one piece which makes it super quick and hassle free when it comes to putting it all together. It uses half double crochet which paired with the thicker Hygge yarn, allows it to work up so fast. Give yourself a few hours and you can have a few of these done in no time!

Currently, this pattern is for a typical, female adult’s head, I would love to transform it for all sizes very soon, so stay tuned! Until then, let’s get started!

What you will need to make this pattern:

  • 6.0 mm hook
  • 57 yards of Red Heart Hygge Yarn
  • Yarn Needle
  • Scissors

Some abbreviations you will see in this pattern:

  • Ch = Chain
  • Hdc = Half Double Crochet
  • Blo = Back loop only
  • Hdc2tog = Half double crochet two together
  • St = Stitch

Special Stitches:

  • Half Double Crochet Two Together: Yarn over, insert hook into the first stitch, pull up a loop, yarn over, insert hook into the next stitch, pull up a loop. There will be 5 loops on your hook. Yarn over, pull through all 5 loops.

Dimensions:

  • When finished and lying flat, it should be about 11.25 inches long and 4 inches tall at the tallest part. *see photos at the end*

Notes:

  • This is sized for an adult female. If the headband is too big, simply do fewer rows at the end of the pattern.
  • Each row’s stitch count will be in parenthesis at the end of each row.
  • This is a very beginner friendly pattern.
  • The ch 2 at the beginning of each row does not count as a stitch.

Pattern:

Ch 15

Row 1:  Hdc in 3rd ch from the hook, hdc in st across, ch 2, turn (13)

Row 2:  Hdc in first st, blo hdc across until one st remains, hdc in last st, ch 2, turn (13)

Row 3-17:  Repeat row 2 (13)

Row 18:  Hdc2tog, hdc in blo in the next 9 sts, hdc2tog, ch 2, turn (11)

Row 19:  Hdc2tog, hdc in blo in the next 7 sts, hdc2tog, ch 2, turn (9)

Row 20:  Hdc2tog, hdc in blo in the next 5 sts, hdc2tog, ch 2, turn (7)

Row 21:  Hdc in first st, hdc in blo until one st remains, hdc in the last st, ch 2, turn (7)

Row 22-35:  Repeat row 21 (7)

Row 36:  2 hdc in first st, hdc in blo across until one st remains, 2 hdc in last st, ch 2, turn (9)

Row 37:  2 hdc in first st, hdc in blo across until one st remains, 2 hdc in last st, ch 2, turn (11)

Row 38:  2 hdc in first st, hdc in blo across until one st remains, 2 hdc in last st, ch 2, turn (13)

Row 39:  Hdc in first st, hdc in blo across until one st remains, hdc in last st, ch 2, turn (13)

Row 40-53:  Repeat row 39 (13)

Secure last chain.  At this point, tie a single knot at the center of the headband at the narrowed part. Once complete, put the hook back in the project to finish the last row.

Row 54:  Hdc in blo of previous row and blo of first row to join the ends together (13)

Here is a picture of what it should look like when you crochet the two ends together. Don’t forget the ch 2 and turn before starting this step.

Tie off and weave in all the ends.

Here’s the picture of the finished dimensions. You can tell I come from a family of contractors when I have a tape measure like this instead of the normal kind. 🙂

And there you have it my friends! The Sophie Headband! As mentioned in the notes, if the headband is too big or too small, just adjust the amount of rows in rows 22-35 and rows 40-53. If you need it smaller, take away one or two rows from each section. If you need it bigger, add one or two rows from each section. Remember though, yarn will relax and stretch as you wear it. The purpose in this pattern for crocheting in the back loops only is to make it stretchy and comfy.

I hope you all enjoy this pattern! This is my favorite pattern I’ve made to date and I cannot wait to see all of you guys’ creations with it! Please feel free to tag me on Instagram if you do make it and use the hashtag #SophieHeadband. If you would like to pin this on your Pinterest board, you can click here to view it. And some more exciting news, Madison’s Makings is officially on Etsy! So if you want a print out of this pattern, please click here to buy a copy of it. If you have any questions about this, or any of my patterns, please feel free to message me on Instagram or email me at [email protected].

Happy crocheting!

Feel free to make as many of these as you would like and feel free to sell them. I just ask that you please acknowledge Madison’s Makings when you do. Please do not steal or copy this pattern and/or my pictures and credit them as your own work. Thank you!

Buoy Bag – Grocery Bag Holder

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I’m not sure if this was all 90’s moms or just mine, but does anyone else remember those cloth grocery bag holders that used to hang somewhere in your kitchen? The one that had a cinched top and bottom so you could stuff a bunch of grocery bags in the top and pull one out at the bottom whenever you needed one? My mom’s broke a long, longg time ago but my mother-in-law still has hers and I loved how convenient it is to grab a grocery bag at their house whenever we need one. I decided there was nothing stopping me from making my own since I have no idea where I could buy one anymore.

So that’s why I created the Buoy Bag! Clearly the name came from the way it hangs on the side of our cabinets like a buoy hangs off a boat. But I got so sick of taking up a whole cabinet that is filled with soo many grocery bags and each morning digging around to try to get just one to put my lunch in it.

The pattern is so fast and quick to make. This now being my second original pattern, you probably have noticed a pattern that I am trying to use up some of my cotton yarn that I have lying around. I used cotton for it, but there’s no reason why you can’t use any type of acrylic yarn. I’m sure I will be making a bunch of these with acrylic yarn to so I can have more color choices and to help bust down some of my yarn stash.

What you will need to make this pattern:

  • 5.0 mm hook
  • About 95 yards of weight 4 yarn
  • Yarn needle
  • Scissors

Some abbreviations you will see in this pattern:

  • Ch = Chain
  • St = Stitch
  • Hdc = Half Double Crochet
  • Tr = Treble Crochet
  • * * = Repeat instructions inside the asterisk across the row until otherwise noted
  • Sl st = Slip Stitch

Gauge:

  • Due to the “lacey” appearance of this pattern, gauge is difficult to calculate and will not make too much of a difference in this pattern.
  • Finished dimensions: 14.0 inches tall and 7.5 inches wide at the widest, most center portion of the bag.

Notes:

  • The ch 2 or 4 at the beginning of each round counts as a stitch throughout the pattern.
  • Each round’s stitch count will be in parenthesis at the end of the round’s instructions.
  • This bag can hold at least 20 plastic bags when finished.

Pattern:

Ch 35

Sl st into first ch of first st – do not twist the chain

Round 1: Ch 2, hdc around, sl st into top of ch 2 (35)

Round 2: Ch 4, tr in first st, ch 3, sk next 3 stitches, *tr in next 2 st, ch 3, sk next 3 st,* repeat across, sl st into top of ch 4 (35)

Round 3: Ch 4, tr 2 in the space between the ch 4 and first tr from previous round, ch 3, *tr 3 into the space between the two tr from previous round, ch 3* repeat across, sl st into top of ch 4 (42)

Round 4: Ch 4, tr 1 into space between ch 4 and middle tr from previous round, tr 2 in space between middle and third tr from previous round, ch 4, *tr 2 in space between the first and middle tr group from previous round, tr 2 in space between the middle and last tr in group from previous round, ch 4,* repeat across, sl st into top of ch 4 (56)

Round 5: Ch 4, tr 2 in space between second and third tr from previous round’s tr group, tr 1 in space between third and fourth tc from previous round’s tr group, ch 4, *tr 1 in space between first and second tr from previous round’s tr group, tr 2 in space between second and third tr from previous round’s tr group, tr 1 in space between third and fourth tr from previous round’s tr group, ch 4* repeat across, sl st into top of ch 4 (56)

Round 6-12: Repeat round 5 (56)

Round 13: Ch 4, tr in space between second and third tr from previous round’s tr group, tr in space between third and fourth tr from previous round’s tr group, ch 3, *tr in space between first and second tr from previous round’s tr group, tr in space between second and third tr from previous rounds tr group, tr in space between third and fourth tr, ch 3,* repeat across, sl st into top of ch 4 (42)

Round 14: Ch 4, tr in between second and third tr from previous round’s tr group, *ch 3, tr in space between first and second tr from previous round’s tr group, tr between second and third tr from previous round tr group,* repeat across, sl st into top of ch 4 (35)

Round 15: Ch 2, hdc in each stitch around, sl st into top of ch 2 (35)

Ch 15 and sl st the last ch into the last st of the previous round to make a loop.

Tie off and weave in all ends.

Make 2 separate chains of 55 stitches each.

Tie off and sew in ends of each strand.

To assemble the bag:

  • Weave the ch strands in and out of the hdc st posts in rounds 1 and 15.
  • Tighten each end to the desired width.
    • I tighten the top one pretty tight and leave the bottom one about half way open to be able to pull the bags out of the bottom easier.
  • Try to aim it so that both ends of the chains will be centered and even in the front of the bag, making it easier to tie off.
Sl st the last of the 15 ch into the last st of previous round to make a loop.
Weave in and out of rows 1 and 15’s hdc posts to add a “cinch” effect, ending and beginning in the front of the bag.
Picture of the bag’s stitch pattern.
The Buoy Bag finished and laying out flat.

That’s it! Not too bad, huh? Now you can clear out some cabinet space and stash those (way too many) grocery bags that you have in something that is more functional. As mentioned in the notes, this bag held 20 grocery bags for me. If you want it to hold more, you could always add more rounds in the middle.

I hope you enjoyed this pattern! If you would like to make one sometime, please pin it on your Pinterest board. Click here to open up the pin on Pinterest. If you make one, please tag me in your pictures of it on Instagram so I can see how you put your own spin on it. Also, feel free to use the hashtag #BuoyBag when you do post about it.

I have some more pattern ideas in mind, so always check back to see my latest creations. If you have a question about this pattern, please feel free to message me on Instagram or email me at [email protected].

Happy crocheting!

Feel free to make as many of these as you would like and feel free to sell them. I just ask that you please acknowledge Madison’s Makings when you do. Please do not steal or copy this pattern and/or my pictures and credit them as your own work. Thank you!

Switchin’ It Up Nintendo Switch Cover

madisons_makings

This is my first ever original design and written up crochet pattern. I never dreamed I would be to this point yet, but here we are!

I started thinking of this design when my husband gave me the Nintendo Switch game, Animal Crossing: New Horizons when we were on our week long, stay home honeymoon (thanks Corona.) For total transparency, I am pretty awful at video games. I cannot for the life of me figure out how to play a game where I have to move my head and the camera at the same time. Way too much going on there. So when some of my friends got Animal Crossing, Corey knew this would for sure be my speed of game. And boy was he right! I quickly got really into it. I even brought my (his) Nintendo Switch to work with me so I could check turnip prices and do some fishing on my lunch break.

This resulted in total destruction of the Switch screen (sorry honeys!) It became a victim of my bottomless purse filled with receipts, random nail polish bottles and the real culprit of the Switch’s downfall, a nail file. I randomly woke up one morning and thought, “I need to make myself a Switch cover!” I didn’t need a case; it’s not like I had intentions of throwing it on the floor. I just needed something thin and durable to put my Switch in before I throw it onto the battlefield inside my purse.

I did a quick Google search to see what it had to say about some of the sturdier crochet stitches. This is when I came across the lemon peel stitch. I now love this stitch and cannot wait to use it in so many more patterns. It gave such an awesome texture to the pattern and the fact that it is reversible makes it so much more mindless when it comes to finding the front and back side of your project. I’m discovering that I love finding new stitch patterns that use very basic stitches but in unique ways. Like this stitch for instance, just uses single and double crochet stitches. If you’re anything like me, double crochet was the first stitch I ever learned and single crochet I learned shortly after. It also works up quickly because of the height of the double crochet in each row.

What you will need to make this pattern:

  • 5.0 mm hook
  • About 140 yards of weight 4 cotton yarn
    • I used almost a full skein of Sugar n’ Cream cotton yarn
  • One 3/4 inch button
  • Yarn needle
  • Slightly smaller needle (to fit in the button holes)
  • Scissors

Some abbreviations you will see in this pattern:

  • Ch = Chain
  • Sc = Single Crochet
  • Dc = Double Crochet
  • Sk = Skip
  • St = Stitch
  • ** = repeat instructions inside the asterisks across the row until otherwise noted

Special stitches you will see in this beginner pattern:

  • Decrease by one for lemon peel stitch: Essentially you will be crocheting a sc and dc together. Insert hook into first stitch, pull up a loop, yarn over, insert hook into next stitch, yarn over and pull up a loop, yarn over, pull through 2 loops on hook, yarn over, pull through remaining 3 loops on hook
  • Crochet 3 together for lemon peel stitch: Insert hook into first stitch, pull up a loop, insert hook into second stitch, pull up a loop, yarn over, insert hook into third stitch and pull up a loop. You should have 4 loops on your hook. Yarn over pull through 2 loops on hook, yarn over, pull through remaining 3 loops on your hook.

Gauge:

  • A 4″ x 4″ square should be 14 stitches long, alternating between dc and sc and about 13 rows tall.
  • For a better sizing method for this specific project, the final dimensions prior to sewing should be about 10.5 inches wide and 13.5 inches tall for the larger Nintendo Switch.

Notes:

  • First and foremost, this is NOT a Nintendo Switch case. This is strictly to try to prevent scratches on the screen. I am not liable if you drop your Switch in this case and it breaks. It is not the purpose of this pattern at all. 🙂
  • As previously mentioned in the gauge section, this pattern is written for the larger Nintendo Switch. It can easily be modified for the smaller version, but in this pattern, the dimensions are for the larger one.
    • To make a smaller version, ch an odd number to your desired length and change the amount of rows to your desired height.
    • My pattern testers made multiple of these for their Nintendo Switch Lites with little change to the pattern. For a snug fit, they used 30 stitches across which can vary with each crocheter’s gauge.
  • This pattern uses the lemon peel stitch. I tried to word this pattern to be beginner friendly, but if assistance is needed, Google had a lot of information on this stitch that I found very helpful.
  • Each row’s final stitch count will be in parenthesis at the end of the row’s instructions.

Alright, now that you have all that you need to know prior to starting this fun pattern, we are ready to get started!

Pattern:

Ch 35

Row 1: sk first chain from hook, *sc, dc* repeat across, ch 1, turn (34)

Row 2: *sc, dc* repeat across, ch 1, turn (34)

Row 3-26: repeat row 2 (34)

Row 27: decrease by one, *sc in next st, dc in next,* repeat across until there are two stitches left, decrease by one (32)

Row 28: decrease by one two times (in the first four stitches), *dc in next st, sc in next,* repeat across until four stitches are remaining, decrease by one two times (28)

Row 29-30: Repeat row 28

Row 31: decrease by one, *sc in next st, then dc in next,* repeat across until you have two stitches left, decrease by one (18)

Row 32: decrease by one, *sc in next st, then dc in next,* repeat across until you have two stitches left, decrease by one (16)

Row 33: decrease by one, *dc in next st, then sc in next st,* repeat across until you have two stitches left, decrease by one (14)

Row 34: decrease by one, *sc in next st, then dc in next st,* repeat across until you have two stitches left, decrease by one (12)

Row 35: decrease by one, *dc in next st, then sc in next,* repeat across until you have two stitches left, decrease by one (10)

Row 36: decrease by one, sc, dc, ch1 and sk st, dc, sc, dc, decrease by one (8 including ch space) *This is the button hole row*

Row 37: decrease by one, dc, sc, sk over ch space, dc, decrease by one (5)

Row 38: decrease by one, dc, decrease by one (3)

Row 39: crochet all three stitches together *see special stitches section of pattern*

Tie off and weave in all ends.

To assemble the cover:

  • Lay the bag out flat with the triangle shape at the top.
  • Fold the bottom half of the rectangle shape to the bottom of the triangle portion of the bag.
  • Sew up the straight edges of the sides of the pouch using a whip stitch and your yarn needle. *see photo below
Sew the cover where the black lines are drawn with a whip stitch. Sew in ends after securing the whip stitch.
  • Sew in all ends that you may have after sewing the sides of the bag up.
  • Place the button on the front of the pouch so that it will fit with the button hole that you made on row 36.
  • Sew the button securely on with the thinner needle.
Securely sew the button on in the middle of the cover so that the button hole is directly over the button when the flap is closed.

And there you have it! You now have a weapon of your own to protect your Nintendo Switch from all the chaos in your purse. Now you can play Animal Crossing where ever you want.

If you enjoyed this pattern, please share it with your friends! You can purchase this pattern on Etsy by clicking here. If you would like to make one one day, please pin it on your Pinterest board! Click here to open up the pin on Pinterest. If you make one, I would love for you to tag me in your creations on Instagram so I can see all the different ways you guys made them your own. Also, feel free to use the hashtag #SwitchinItUpNintendoSwitchCover when posting your pictures.

My awesome pattern testers did an incredible job with this pattern! Check out my Instagram page to see all of their Switchin’ It Up Nintendo Switch Covers. Also be on the lookout for new updates and new patterns on Instagram, along with more blog posts too! I have a couple more original patterns of mine in the works. If you have a question about this pattern, please feel free to message me on Instagram or email me at [email protected].

Happy crocheting!

Feel free to make as many of these as you would like and feel free to sell them. I just ask that you please acknowledge Madison’s Makings when you do. Please do not steal or copy this pattern and/or my pictures and credit them as your own work. Thank you!